Left to right, you see a mahogany board, some of its former pieces, and their future state: André Roubo bookstands, named for him because they are featured in his published work.
After crosscutting enough length of mahogany for two stands, a dado is cut to allow room for a bandsaw blade to get into the middle of the board. Purists might be apalled at my using a bandsaw to resaw these, but I have one, and I don't have a bow saw. Unfortunately, my router is finnecky in the cold... so perhaps the purists will be appeased by my using a rabbet plane.
A holdfast holds a fence square to the board's edge while the dado begins.
The dado deepens, enough for the plane to track without the fence.
At the other end, a tenon saw carefully provides a crosscut to the center of the board.
After resawing on the bandsaw, the two pieces separate, ready for carving. Andre Roubo advocates always making two of these stands at a time in this fashion, so as to avoid wasting precious hardwood that would otherwise be cut off when forming the front.
After marking the center of the hinge on all four sides, I use a compass to mark a circle with the diameter of the board's thickness.
I mark the edges of the circle square to the faces, and carry that line across the faces. The circle will guide the carving of the hinge.
I use the compass as a divider to mark seven equal sections across each face. An odd number is important.
A square helps keep the sections even and accurate.
Marking the sections to be chiseled out is also important; make sure the outside continuous section goes from front to back as it goes from bottom to top.
The purists will be apalled again as my shopsmith drillpresses out holes to allow a pinned coping saw blade in there.
The coping saw works thusly, separating the sections.
Then begins the chiseling. Start from in front of the shoulder line, and work up to it.
The chiseling is a straightforward subtractive process. Enough for tonight, completion hopefully tomorrow.